Unnamed print 1913
from the Atelier Martine under Paul Poiret,
The classic floral reduced to basic shapes.
Paul Poiret (1879-1944)
Couturier Paul Poiret completely changed fashion. Not only did he revolutionize the dress silhouette, jettisoning corsets and introducing what became known as the "hobble skirt,"he had a genius for using the modern prints that European designers were producing.
In love with the simplicity of folk arts he began the Atelier Martine, (Studio Martine) named for his daughter, where he staffed the design department with young girls who had no artistic training---an iffy and condescending concept---but one that seems to have worked.
Read about Poiret and the Atelier Martine at the Metropolitan Museum of Art:
And in Lesley Jackson's Twentieth-Century Pattern Design on page 47